On the Flop - When to play aggressively
by Unam
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Introduction
In this article- Why play aggressively
- How to deal with resistance

The first "On the Flop" article introduced you to the basics. You learned the importance of analysing the board, knowing where you stand with your hand, and what you can accomplish with it. This article will use example hands to show you when and how to be aggressive after the flop has been revealed.
Aggressive play generally be classified into the following 4 categories:
- Value bets
- Protection
- Bluff
- Semi-bluff
It is therefore clear that your flop action needs to be aggressive, meaning you need to bet or raise.
The following examples will guide you as you learn to determine where you stand with your hand, why you should (or have to) play aggressively in a given situation, what actions to take and how to react to when an opponent refuses to lay down his hand.
Playing for value
Party Poker No-Limit Hold'em 11$ SnG, Big Blind is t40 (10 handed)
Stacks & Reads
UTG (t2000)
UTG+1 (t2000)
UTG+2 (t2000)
Hero (t2000)
MP2 (t2000)
MP3 (t2000)
CO (t2000) (loose player)
Button (t2000)
SB (t2000) (average player)
BB (t2000)
Preflop: Hero is MP1 with Q , Q
3 fold, Hero raises to 160, 1 fold, CO calls 160, 1 fold, SB calls 140 1 fold
Flop: (520) 4, 4
, J
(3 players) SB checks, Hero bets 280, ...
You raised from middle position and got two cold calls. You like what you see on the flop and are ahead of your opponents in most cases. It's very unlikely that one of your opponents has a 4 (you might put the loose CO on a 4, but even that would be a stretch). Besides, his range is so wide that you won't be able to fold to him. There is no need to protect your hand on a rainbow flop with a paired board, either.
In this case you bet for one single reason: you want to maximize your value. You have a strong hand and want to get paid off.
There is no real reason to worry if opponents resist in this example. You would have no problem going all-in if you do get raised. Bet/3-bet is a decent option. You can definitely 3-bet if the CO raises; he doesn't seem to be a solid player and will often bet on a weak hand. Jx is probably good enough for him. You don't have position on him, so you should play check/raise if you make it to the turn.
If, on the other hand, the relatively tight small blind check/raises, it's probably a bluff. You are in position, so you can call on the flop and bet on the turn (or raise all-in if he bets).
You are almost always ahead in such a situation and would clearly like to go all-in if possible. You should be aggressive and bet, since you are sandwiched between two opponents. You also have the advantage of being the pre-flop aggressor. If you encounter resistance, don't ask yourself if you're willing to go broke with your hand, but rather how to best go about getting your money in.
Party Poker No-Limit Hold'em 11$ SnG, Big Blind is t40 (10 handed)
Stacks & Reads
UTG (t2000)
UTG+1 (t2000) (Calling Station)
UTG+2 (t2000)
MP1 (t2000)
MP2 (t2000)
Hero (t2000)
CO (t2000)
Button (t2000)
SB (t2000)
BB (t2000)
Preflop: Hero is MP3 with A , Q
1 fold, UTG+1 calls 40 3 folds, Hero raises to 200, 4 folds, UTG+1 calls 160
Flop: 460) A, 7
, 2
(2 players) UTG checks, Hero bets 280, ...
Now lets look at this example in which you raise AQo from MP3 and a loose calling station decided to stay in the hand after limping.
You will usually be ahead in this situation. It's likely that your opponent has a small pocket pair or a weaker ace.
You bet for one reason: you want more value. You don't need to protect against this board and your opponent is not likely to bet himself. He likes to call all the way to the showdown, which is exactly what you want him do.
You'll have to be on guard in this situation. You're facing a passive player on a dry board. Be careful if he raises. There is no sense in 3-betting if he does. He will only fold a weaker hand or a bluff (don't expect him to bluff raise often). If he has a strong hand, however, he will push. The problem with 3-betting: You're going to have to call if he does push.
You have two options: Either you believe him (AK/77/22/A7/A2 are within his range) and fold (a pretty cautious move to make). Or, you call having the advantage of position.
You will have to ask yourself if you have the best hand again if he second barrels on the turn.
With such a hand on a dry board you simply have to keep betting against such a passive opponent. If he shows resistance, you will know he's hit something. There's no need to go broke in such a hand, and there is little sense in 3-betting. When you're in position, you call. If you're out of position, however, folding is rarely a poor choice.
When do you play for protection?
Party Poker No-Limit Hold'em 11$ SnG, Big Blind is t40 (10 handed)
Stacks & Reads
UTG (t2000)
UTG+1 (t2000)
UTG+2 (t2000)
Hero (t2000)
MP2 (t2000)
MP3 (t2000)
CO (t2000) (tight player)
Button (t2000)
SB (t2000)
BB (t2000)
Preflop: Hero is MP1 with A , K
Hero raises to 160, 1 fold, CO calls 160, 3 folds
Flop: (380) K, 7
, 6
(2 players) Hero bets 240, ...
You raise with AKo from MP1 and get a cold call. You find yourself out of position against a relatively tight opponent on the flop and know that he has a tight cold call range.
You hit the flop nicely. Top pair/top kicker is a very strong hand, especially heads up. However, you also know that your opponent has a very polarized hand range, meaning you have a pretty good idea of what hands he needs to call a pre-flop raise. It will usually be a small pocket pair that was too weak for a 3-bet, but also too strong to fold. He could also have a hand like AQ, AJ, or KQ, which you have dominated. It's not likely that he has suited connectors (such as 45s), but this is also a possibility.
You bet to protect against a hand like suited connectors. He will usually fold a small pocket pair, which is fine with you. You might even get paid off by a hand like KQ.
You will have to be cautious with this opponent, as well. He isn't the most aggressive player at the table, but he is certainly capable of raising with suited connectors or a weaker king. He might even try a bluff.
The problem is that you are now out of position. You will have to check the turn if you get called, and giving away free cards isn't the best thing to do in this situation. If your opponent raises, you can either fold or 3-bet (and call if he pushes all-in).
Take a look back at the range we gave your opponent. 66 and 77 are the only hands in that range that have you beat. You also know that your opponent will raise with a lot of the other hands in his range. Even if you end up broke, going all-in wouldn't be a mistake.
You have to protect your hand on this board. You're facing a very aggressive opponent and are out of position, which doesn't leave you many options. Before you bet, you should know how you are going to react if your opponent raises. If you've played against him before and know he is rather tight, you can definitely consider folding.
If, on the other hand, you don't believe him, you can invest your stack in this hand. Bet/3-bet is the best move, especially since you don't want to call out of position.
Party Poker No-Limit Hold'em 11$ Tourney, Big Blind is t40 (10 handed)
Stacks & Reads
UTG (t2000)
UTG+1 (t2000)
UTG+2 (t2000)
MP1 (t2000)
MP2 (t2000)
Hero (t2000)
CO (t2000)
Button (t2000)
SB (t2000)
BB (t2000)
Preflop: Hero is MP3 with K , K
1 fold, UTG+1 calls 40, 3 folds, Hero raises to 200, BU calls 200, 3 folds, UTG+1 calls 160
Flop: (660) 5, 6
, 3
(3 players) UTG checks, Hero bets 400, ...
In this example, you raise from middle position with pocket kings. The loose UTG+1 is once again in the hand (surprise), but this time the relatively tight BU calls, too. You find yourself sandwiched between them in a 3-handed pot on the flop.
Your over-pair loses in value simply because you are playing a 3-handed flop. You are ahead against drawing hands and smaller over-pairs, but hands like 33, 55, 66 are often played from the BU.
You obviously have to protect here. You don't want to see a , 2, 4 or 7 on the turn. You basically bet to see where you stand with your hand.
You'll be in a tough spot if you get raised. It certainly wouldn't be a mistake to fold your hand on this flop.
It doesn't make a difference if the passive UTG or the tight aggressive button raises. Either of them could have a very strong hand.
Your line should be bet/fold. You can do so again on the turn if you get called.
Your hand loses value with three players in the hand. If either of your opponents raise, you'll have to believe him and fold. Your only alternative is going broke on the flop; calling is out of the question on such a draw heavy board. Once again: If you decide to 3-bet, you'll have to call if an opponent pushes.
Party Poker No-Limit Hold'em 11$ SnG, Big Blind is t40 (10 handed)
Stacks & Reads
UTG (t2000)
UTG+1 (t2000)
UTG+2 (t2000)
MP1 (t2000)
MP2 (t2000)
MP3 (t2000)
CO (t2000)
Button (t2000)
SB (t2000) (loose aggresive player)
Hero (t2000)
Preflop: Hero is BB with Q , Q
8 folds, SB raises to 120, Hero raises to 360, SB calls 240
Flop: (720) 2, 5
, 8
(2 players) SB checks, Hero bets 450, ...
Let's take a look at a 3-bet pot.
There are a few general characteristics of 3-bet pots:
- the pot is larger on the flop
- your opponents have smaller hand ranges
- it's less likely that opponents are on draws
- all-ins come sooner than later
You don't have to put your opponent on a draw just because the board is suited, especially since speculative hands like suited connectors and weak suited aces are less likely to be found in 3-bet pots.
In this example, however, you see a single suited flop. A one card flush draw could be very dangerous.
There is no reason for you to see yourself behind on this board. As we said, it is very unlikely that your opponent has a made flush, since A K
or A
Q
are the only two pre-flop hands that would make sense. Such an aggressive opponent would probably have 4-bet with kings or aces.
Aside from believing that you are ahead, you absolutely have to protect your hand. Opponents could have hands like A Kx / Ax K
or J
Jx / T
Tx. You can also assume that these hands will rarely fold on the flop and that you will get be paid off most of the time.
Can you really give up this hand? The fact is, there are too many hands you still have beat. Folding would be too weak. Your goal should be to move all-in on the flop if possible. Your line should be bet/push.
You have to protect in 3-bet pots, as well. However, you must pay closer attention to your opponents' actions.
You can usually narrow your opponent's range in a 3-bet pot and rule out most draws. Of course, draws are always possible on a two-suited board, so you can't rule them out completely. You have to protect aggressively on such a board. Folding is too weak, since you would often do have the best hand.
Bluffs?
A contibet can be a good way to take down the pot when you miss the flop, provided you were the pre-flop aggressor. In this setion however we are only going to look at examples, in which you were passive before the flop. The topic of continuation bets is covered in its own article which can be found here.
Party Poker No-Limit Hold'em 11$ SnG, Big Blind is t40 (10 handed)
Stacks & Reads
UTG (t2000)
UTG+1 (t2000)
UTG+2 (t2000)
MP1 (t2000)
MP2 (t2000)
MP3 (t2000)
CO (t2000)
Hero (t2000)
SB (t2000)
BB (t2000)
Preflop: Hero is BU with 2 , 2
UTG raises to 120, 1 fold, CO calls 120, Hero calls 120, 2 folds
Flop: (420) Q, T
, 6
(3 players) UTG checks, CO checks, Hero checks…
You call for set value after the CO's cold calls ahead of you. Naturally, you miss the flop completely, but both opponents check and give you the opportunity to make a position bet. Since your chips are however much to valuable to risk here you simply continue with your plan to play for set value and play check/fold.
The conclusion you can draw here is that in SNGs there is generally little room for bluffing, due to your relatively small stack size. The main exception for this are completely dry boards in unraised pots vs the blinds, since then it is both cheaper and more likely that your opponents will fold. Unfortunately the pots are generally so small that there is nearly no extra value.
Bluffs are not necessary in these early stages of a SNG. When the blinds go up we simply start stealing more with our tight and solid image. These steals have a much better $EV.
When do you semi-bluff?
The idea behind the semi-bluff is closely related to that of the pure bluff. The difference: even though you would prefer to see your opponent to fold (since you currently have no showdown value), you can still improve your hand on the later streets if you do get called. In order to better demonstrate this idea, we will have a look at a couple of examples from practice.
Party Poker No-Limit Hold'em 11$ SnG, Big Blind is t40 (10 handed)
Stacks & Reads
UTG (t2000)
UTG+1 (t2000)
UTG+2 (t2000)
MP1 (t2000)
MP2 (t2000)
MP3 (t2000)
CO (t2000)
Hero (t2000)
SB (t2000)
BB (t2000)


UTG raises to 80, 5 folds, CO calls 80, Hero calls 80, 2 folds
Flop: (300) 7



UTG bets to 200, CO fold, Hero raises to 720
You have 5 high and are almost always behind on the flop. However, this time you are holding a monster draw. The flush draw + OESD give you 15 clean outs for a strong made hand.
On one hand, you're happy to see your opponent fold and take down the pot with 5 high. On the other hand, there are 15 outs you can hit on the turn if he calls.
In general, your decision depends on the strength of your draw. You can go all-in profitably with 12 outs of more. Additionally you are creating a large amount of fold equity if your opponent gives you the chance to push with a semi-bluff. The FE and the dead money already in the pot balance out the small mathematical disadvantage you are at with 12 outs.
In this example you have a monster draw and there is no way you are giving it up. Your opponent will be pot committed if he 3-bets; so your raise puts him at a decision for all of his chips. If he does decide to go all-in however, you have at least 50% equity. You may even be the favourite. An opponent's push gives you such high odds, that you can't possibly fold.
If you have a very strong draw, it is important to play it aggressively on the flop. You can take down the pot immediately without even hitting one of your outs. If you just called in the previous examples you could easily run into trouble, should you not hit on the turn. Especially if your opponent bets big, you will be faced with a tough decision. While you would still have 15 outs and very high implied odds you would have to give up your hand on the river if you don't improve by then.
If you have a weaker draw however, you will usually have to give it up on the turn, simply because you only have one more chance to hit, meaning your equity drops drastically.
With a very strong draw you will often even be the favourite, meaning you should try to play aggressively in order to get your money in the middle. Your so called semi-bluff can often be considered a value raise. The next example demonstrates this.
Party Poker No-Limit Hold'em 11$ SnG, Big Blind is t40 (10 handed)
Stacks & Reads
UTG (t2000)
UTG+1 (t2000)
UTG+2 (t2000)
MP1 (t2000)
MP2 (t2000)
MP3 (t2000)
CO (t2000)
Hero (t2000)
SB (t2000)
BB (t2000)


UTG raises to 80, 1 fold, CO calls 80, Hero raises to 320, 3 folds, CO calls 240
Flop: (760) 4



CO bets to 380, Hero raises All-in
Once again you find yourself in a 3-bet pot. Your 3-bet got the aggressive UTG raiser to fold. The loose CO has now called twice and is playing heads-up out of position against you.
Your opponent has a wide range and his donk bet doesn't really mean much. He could easily have a weak made hand that might even have showdown value (in his opinion, at least). Your problem: Your ace high on the flop doesn't have many hands beat.
On one hand, you can expect weak made hands to fold. You could also get a better hand to fold, which could be considered a nice success. The question is however, are we even behind equity wise?
You have 15 clean outs against hands like Tx or JJ/QQ (9 outs for the nut flush and 6 for top pair/top kicker). Your opponent could also be on a draw himself, or he could be overplaying overcards (AQ perhaps). You are way ahead of these hands right now.
You should raise/push and force your opponent to make a difficult decision.
This time it's pretty simple: your opponent can either call or fold.
Semi-bluffs are possible in 3-bet pots. Whereas a pure bluff would be a rather poor idea, a semi-bluff has an additional advantage aside from the fold equity it creates: you have outs for the best hand (and may, in fact, be favoured to win, depending on the strength of your draw) although you have no showdown value at the moment.
CONCLUSION
You have been introduced to some of the standard aggressive moves players make on the flop. You have also learned when you can make these moves and what you can accomplish by doing so.
Always think of the purpose behind a move. Do you want more value? Do you have to protect your hand? Do you have sufficient fold equity to bluff? Does your semi-bluff create enough fold equity? Is your draw so strong that you are, in fact, favoured to win?
It is always important to know how you are going to react when opponents resist. You don't have to have a perfect plan mapping out for every possibility, but you should have an idea of what you are going to do if your opponent stays in the hand. The sample hand evaluation forums can be of great help.
You can post your hands and discuss a possible plan of action for such situations with other players. The last thing you want to do is make a bold check/raise on the flop and suddenly be surprised when an opponent pushes/3-bets. You will have trouble reacting correctly.
Of course, you don't always have to play aggressively on the flop. PokerStrategy also has an article on passive play for you to read: "On the Flop – When to play passively".
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